Tomato Babushkino

You can buy tomatoes for the table, or you can grow them on your site. Such fruits are always juicy and tasty. Mature and aromatic. One of the popular varieties in our country is Babushkino. Ease of cultivation, minimal maintenance and good yields made it so.

Bred the plant Blokin-Mechtalin Vasily Ivanovich. The variety was approved for use only in 2019.

The described variety is indeterminate, suitable for outdoor cultivation, as well as for greenhouses and greenhouses.

The described variety necessarily requires formation and a garter so that the bushes do not fall to the ground. When a plant is formed, two to three stems are formed. The inflorescence is simple, the first appears above the 9th leaf, all the rest - after 2-3 leaves. The peduncle has an articulation.

The bushes of Babushkino are tall, reach 1.8 m. The foliage is of medium length, the shade is dark, green.

Tomatoes of this variety are great for cooking:

• pastes;

• juice;

• ketchup.

They are delicious fresh.

When fully ripe, Babushkino becomes a rich red hue with a pink tint. The fruits can grow up to 600 grams. Babushkino's tomatoes have a slight ribbing, they are flat-round in shape.

Tomatoes of this variety can crack when overripe.

The flesh inside the tomato is dense, they taste sweet, but there is a slight, mild sourness.

The mid-early Babushkino tomato fully ripens on the bushes within 115 days from the moment the seeds are planted.

This variety is considered to be high yielding. Indicators: 18-22 kg / m2.

By the end of February or the beginning of March, seedlings are usually planted for seedlings. The bushes are transplanted into a greenhouse at the end of April or beginning of May.

The grower is required to follow the planting scheme. With this variety, it looks like this: 4 plants per m2, 40x60 cm.

Growing Babushkino's tomatoes from seeds takes 6 to 8 weeks from sowing to transplanting. Starting too early indoors results in long-legged, overgrown seedlings.

Tomato seeds are quite small, and if you plant them too deep, they may never break through. Sow them to a depth of 5 mm, lightly covering them with a moistened fertile mixture.

Strong, healthy seedlings need a lot of light. When there is too little of it, the seedlings begin to stretch upward. It is best to send the pots to a sunny window.

The second important point is moisture. Waterlogging is one of the fastest ways to destroy Babushkino's seedlings, so you need to constantly monitor soil moisture. The soil should be slightly damp. After the seeds are sown, oilcloth is used to cover the soil. It turns out something like a small greenhouse. As soon as the seeds germinate, the film is removed so that air can circulate freely around the foliage.

Air circulation is important not only when growing healthy seedlings, but also later, when the tomato grows in the ground, so they make timely pruning and stepchild Babushkino.

Two weeks after the tomatoes are placed in the ground, the lower leaves are all removed. This preventive measure reduces the likelihood of many fungal diseases later.

As for the stepchildren, a lot of them are formed on this variety, if not removed, then the bush becomes wide, heavily leafy. As a result, not only moisture is retained inside the plant on the leaves, but extra shoots begin to pull nutrients onto themselves.

Slow-release fertilizers are suitable for Babushkino's tomato. They provide the necessary substances within a few weeks after planting in the ground. You can supplement these dressings with an organic, water-soluble fertilizer, applied at half the recommended rate every 12-14 days. Animal dung is ideal for tomatoes.

At first, Babushkino will require a lot of nitrogen, since the bushes are tall. It can be used until the inflorescences begin to form. At the next growing stage, nitrogen is removed so that a lot of excess foliage does not form, and all the forces go to the fruits.

In the period when the tomato begins to ripen, they switch to phosphorus and potassium dressings. They help to improve immunity, allow the plant to form high-quality tomatoes.

Babushkino's tomatoes do not have resistance to the most common diseases, therefore, preventive treatment is imperative.

The fight against bacterial wilting of tomatoes grown in contaminated soil is difficult. Crop rotation with non-susceptible plants such as corn, beans, and cabbage for at least 3 years provides some control. Do not use peppers, eggplants, potatoes, or sunflowers in this rotation. Remove and destroy all contaminated plant material in the greenhouse or field.

Early late blight is a problem for the Babushkino variety. To reduce the severity of the disease, test your garden soil annually and maintain adequate potassium levels. The tomato will need to be sprayed with calcium nitrate monthly for good growth. If the disease is serious enough, it is worth choosing one of the following fungicides: Mancozeb, Chlorothalonil, or copper preparations.

To minimize the problem of late blight, the following recommendations should be followed when growing the described variety.

• Keep foliage dry.

• Leave extra space between plants and avoid watering, especially at the end of the day.

• Purchase certified seeds and seedlings without diseases.

• They destroy the weeds of the nightshade family around the tomato.

• Do not compost the soil with rotten potatoes.

• Pluck and destroy diseased plants.

To combat bacterial spotting, avoid areas that were planted with peppers the previous year. Do not allow overhead irrigation, soil moistening is carried out using drip or furrow irrigation. All diseased plant material is removed. Spray Babushkino copper fungicide, which gives good control over bacterial disease.

If Babushkino's tomato plants succumb to core necrosis, diseased plants, including roots, are carefully removed and disposed of. This disease is exacerbated by overuse of nitrogen fertilizer early in the season, so it is best to check the soil for additional nitrogen application.

Given that the Babushkino variety is grown with great success in greenhouses, it is common in most regions of our country. This is not only the Urals and the central part, but also the Far East, different regions of Siberia. Quite good results are being achieved in the south.