Do-it-yourself siding with insulation at home

The most common material for house cladding is siding. With its help, it is very easy to insulate and protect the walls of the building on your own. If you do everything right, then such a structure will serve for a very long time, and will also delight for many years.

Self-cladding of a house with insulated siding is a difficult and time-consuming process. First of all, you need to decide on the material. It is necessary to choose a suitable insulation for siding sheets (mineral wool, polystyrene, etc.), as well as pick up the cladding material itself.

After the owner of the house has decided on this, the amount of material that will be needed for work should be calculated based on the surface area and consumption for errors.

It is very important to prepare the necessary tools for the job in advance. Otherwise, the work will not be done at the highest level.

If such a procedure is carried out for the first time, then it is necessary to consult with a specialist in advance in order to avoid unpleasant consequences.

The most important thing when self-laying insulation and cladding is not to rush and strictly follow the instructions.

The sphere of production of building materials has made great strides forward a long time ago. Today there is a greater variety of species of materials from which siding panels are made to sheathe a house.

From time immemorial, wood has been used in construction and facing work. Also siding panels can be made of pine, spruce, oak, etc. Initially, they were in the form of an ordinary board, which was treated with a special solution to prevent mold and decay. Then manufacturers began making ready-made panels that were easy to attach to the wall. The advantage of this material is that it is environmentally friendly, has a low cost, is easy to use, and is able to withstand low temperatures.

It should be noted that such cladding material requires maintenance: timely staining, treatment of chips (if any), filling the resulting cracks with putty (they usually appear when the board dries out badly).

An alternative option could be the metal sheathing of the house. Such a siding panel has a thickness of about 0.7 mm, in layers there is the metal itself (as a rule, it is aluminum), a primer and a polymer coating (it can imitate the structure of a tree).

This material is very practical and durable to use. It does not lend itself to combustion, has good strength, and is resistant to corrosion when properly processed.

If the siding is made of aluminum, then it is easy to wrinkle, and the dent is almost impossible to fix. In this regard, it is better to give preference to galvanized steel.This type of cladding is durable, has good elasticity (therefore, it is easier to take it to its destination and not bend), it tolerates temperature changes well, is not afraid of moisture and direct sunlight. However, if there are chips, then they must be eliminated urgently, since rust may appear.

Vinyl siding panels are rich in texture and color. According to their characteristics, they are not inferior to their rivals: they are not subject to combustion, have a durable body, and are not susceptible to weather conditions (rain, sun, temperature changes). Masters also note that vinyl siding is non-toxic, has an affordable price, low weight, and a service life of up to 40 years. With the help of such cladding, it is easy to create a beautiful and aesthetic appearance of the house.

This material has few drawbacks: at high temperatures (+ 40o) it can lose its shape and melt, does not keep heat, therefore it requires insulation when installed at home.

As such, he does not need care. Vinyl siding panels should not be washed with abrasive substances, and the use of active (aggressive) cleaning chemicals is also unacceptable.

This material has appeared relatively recently. Such sheathing boards are obtained by pressing cellulose fibers with cement.

The thickness of one panel is approximately 9-11 mm, which provides sufficient strength and reliability of the coating, but at the same time makes it very heavy. Therefore, a special frame is required for installation, which complicates the work.

Fiber cement does not burn, easily tolerates temperature drops of 50 degrees, and also does not rot or rust. What is especially pleasant is that it does not require additional maintenance.

The disadvantages of such cladding include a fairly high price., small selection of colors. Due to the fact that the panel is so thick, it cannot be cut without special tools. You should be aware that during pruning, dust is formed that cannot be inhaled. Therefore, the masters strongly recommend using protective masks during work.

This species is the youngest. Specialists from Japan came up with the idea of ​​combining cement, cellulose and clay. The result is a high quality, strong and durable material. Such cladding is environmentally friendly, does not burn, absorbs noise and has an aesthetic appearance.

After the choice of siding panels has been made, it is necessary to think about the choice of insulation. Its species diversity is also great, and each of them has its own advantages, disadvantages and features.

This insulation can take several forms. These can be regular rolls, slabs, or larger mat-like cuts. Its production takes place in several ways. The first is the melting of waste glass containers, glass cuttings, etc., from which fiberglass or glass wool is made. The second option is basalt processing. The end product is the so-called stone wool.

The third method is the pressing of wood fiber and waste paper. It turns out an environmentally friendly insulation.

Minvata is easy to use, but it contains substances that are harmful to the respiratory system. Therefore, it is recommended to protect the respiratory tract with a mask. It is also important to understand that this material absorbs moisture well, and therefore requires additional waterproofing.

This insulation is one of the cheapest. It has an average level of heat and sound insulation.For these reasons, it is stacked in several layers. Polyfoam does not tolerate direct sunlight and lasts about 10-13 years.

It is very fond of gnawing rats and mice. To protect it, a protective mesh is applied on top.

Insulation appeared about 50 years ago and managed to prove itself well in the market. It is obtained by mixing polystyrene granules with a foaming agent. The result is strong and dense membranes.

The material perfectly keeps heat in the house, does not rot and, accordingly, does not absorb moisture. It can compress well without loss of properties, and also withstands large temperature drops, does not crack or crack.

This product is a foamed mass. Initially, it is a liquid that is sprayed onto the walls. Thanks to this application, the insulation is evenly distributed over the surface without seams and joints.

Polyurethane foam has a high price and requires special equipment for "styling", so for hand-made sheathing and insulation is suitable only for experienced craftsmen. Particular attention should be paid to the protection of the respiratory tract.

The parameters of each house are unique and require special attention. Installation work will vary depending on what kind of building it is: a country house among a large ventilated space or a structure among houses of the same type, where there is no free air flow.

The correct selection of the necessary materials is one of the difficult issues with self-made casing and insulation. In many ways, the choice depends on the building material from which the house is made. For example, mineral wool is preferable for a construction from a solid wooden bar, and for a brick or cinder block, almost all types of insulation.

For a timber frame house, it is also recommended to use mineral wool. This is due to the fact that it is the most fireproof material for wooden buildings.

As for the outer walls made of aerated concrete, experts advise to insulate them with penoplex.

In turn, professionals in the field of construction and installation have identified a number of qualities that a heater should have.

Focusing on these norms, it will be much easier to make a choice:

• the most important quality is low thermal conductivity;
• the insulation must be hydrophobic or absorb moisture in scanty amounts;
• it must "maintain its shape" (not to crumble, not to slide, not to flow, not to change shape from temperature);
• It should be especially emphasized its safety for humans, the material must also be fire-resistant, not emit pungent odors when heated;
• it is unacceptable to contain substances that will contribute to the growth of bacteria, fungi and mold.

Siding also requires attention. Its choice must be approached wisely, since it is affected by natural phenomena (wind, rain, snow, temperature drops, etc.). Each type of cladding has its pros and cons, but among the wide variety, vinyl siding panels are preferred. Due to its properties, it tolerates "outdoor conditions" well, does not fade in the sun for a long time, and is also a "breathable" and safe material.

If you choose metal panels, then you should think about the level of complexity of their fastening. A beginner in this business cannot cope on his own. As for their characteristics, do not forget about their susceptibility to corrosion. Plus, when it rains sideways, water droplets hit the walls and create a high level of noise.

If, nevertheless, there are doubts about the choice, then real consumers will become the best clue in this matter. It is best to talk to the homeowners. From them you can find out what the pros and cons they have identified during operation.

In the field of repair and construction, in order to get an excellent result, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions. This also applies to cladding with insulation of the facade of the building. Each building is unique in its own way and has its own characteristics. The outside is as important as the inside.

A properly insulated house with your own hands will always delight you with its comfort and atmosphere. It is very important to understand that if cladding is to be carried out, then one should not forget about the pediment (upper part). It also needs to be insulated.

Initially, the craftsmen recommend installing scaffolding. This will make it much easier to clean the entire surface of the house from foreign elements (outdoor lamp, window sill, etc.).

Further, all holes, blemishes in the walls are removed. After that, the surface can be leveled and proceed with the installation of the battens, on which the siding panels will be attached. But before installing them, it is necessary to lay a heater with mandatory waterproofing in the formed apiaries.

This is just a general do-it-yourself plating installation technology. Each point requires more detailed consideration.

The final result depends on how carefully the walls are prepared for installation. This issue needs to be given a lot of attention and effort.

It is necessary to determine what the walls are built of: brick, wood, concrete blocks, etc.

If the house is made of solid logs, then the preparation will take place as follows:

• As mentioned earlier, the walls are cleaned of all unnecessary and extraneous that will interfere with the work.
• Cracks in the wood are embroidered and cleaned of debris and shavings. Places where the tree is in mold or there are places of decay are especially carefully processed.

• All wood must be carefully treated with an antiseptic solution, especially in depressions and cracks.
• Further, all holes and irregularities are coated with a special putty for wood.
• After everything is dry, a waterproofing film is applied. This must be done in dry and warm weather.

In the case when the building is made of bricks, the preparation takes place a little faster.

The following series of actions should be performed:

• It is necessary to look through all the brickwork and identify flaws (cracked cement composition, loose bricks). Further, all flaws are removed using polyurethane foam or the same cement mortar.

• All joints and seams are treated with a solution from fungus and mold. This is worth doing even for prevention purposes, since a dark and damp space is a beneficial environment for the growth and development of microorganisms.
• Cracks formed as a result of house shrinkage must be thoroughly coated with putty.
• The foundation of the house is covered with waterproofing (film, mortar).
• If the insulation is glued to the wall, then it is pre-primed.

A similar procedure is carried out for houses built from concrete blocks.

After the preparatory work, you should visually make sure that the work is done well, and then proceed with the installation of the lathing.

The lathing is necessary in order to create the basis for attaching the siding, as well as for the convenience of distributing the insulation material. It also helps create a small air gap between the insulation and the skin. Thus, condensation will not appear, and in the future, fungus and mold.

Such frames are of two types: wooden and metal. It is preferable to lay a crate made of metal on a brick base, and from boards on a wooden base.

The wooden lathing is installed as follows.

• It is necessary to make markings over the entire area of ​​the walls. The bars should be at a certain distance of 45-55 cm from each other. Their location should be strictly perpendicular to the future cladding material.
• All wooden boards are treated with a special compound that protects against fire, moisture and decay.

• The timber itself should have a width and thickness of 50 to 50 mm.
• At the marked points, holes are drilled in advance for fastening to the wall.
• The rack beams are mounted on top of the vertically installed ones. First, holes are also drilled in them and plastic dowels are hammered for future fastening, and then they are screwed with ordinary self-tapping screws. The result is a wooden frame grille.

To install a metal crate, you need to do the following steps:

• As with a wooden structure, the markings are done first.
• Holes are made along the outer facade, dowels are hammered in and U-shaped suspensions are attached.
• Then metal profiles are attached perpendicular to the suspensions. For a "rigid" connection of the profiles, a "crab" is used. This is a plate to help fix the battens.
• Hangers are additionally attached to the wall. The insulation will be "strung" on them and fixed.

Regardless of the type of lathing, window and door openings are lined with it around the perimeter. After installing this structure, you can proceed to the next stage - laying the insulation.

The specifics of installation work on laying the insulation material will depend on its type.

With the help of a sprayer, the insulation is evenly applied along the entire perimeter of the walls. Particular attention should be paid to gaps and joints between the slats. Re-coat if necessary.

After everything is dry, you should cut off all protruding excess with a clerical knife. It is very important that all layers dry well, otherwise the insulation will not cut well.

Mineral wool layers are perfect for wooden lathing. It can be laid in 1 or 2 layers, it all depends on the thickness of the insulation itself and the distance of the wooden beam from the wall. Sheets are inserted quite simply. To fix them in place, a rail is applied from above. After everything is laid, the windproof layer is stretched from above with the rough side inward.

Its installation is easy too. It is used where a metal frame is installed. This material is laid end-to-end by "stringing" on previously prepared suspensions. They bend and tightly press the insulation to themselves.

If, as a result of the installation, small gaps appear, then they must be removed with the help of polyurethane foam (the excess must be cut off). A protective windproof film is also applied over the laid insulation.

Wall insulation with foam sheets is one of the cheapest methods today. It is mounted quite simply and quickly. It is laid in the openings between the frame slats.Previously, the surface of the foam sheet is coated with construction glue, and then, for reliability, it is fixed with screws "umbrellas" (at the end there is a circle with a diameter of up to 5 cm, so the screw will not slip through the canvas, but, on the contrary, hold it tightly in a given position).

The joints between the canvases are coated with either polyurethane foam or building mixture. The same protective film from the wind is laid on top. It is worth noting the fact that it is highly flammable.

When the crate is securely installed, the insulation is laid, and all the joints are oiled and foamed, you can proceed to the final stage - the installation of siding panels.

The work of installing the cladding material is always carried out from the bottom up. As mentioned earlier, the panels are attached to the wireframe mesh. From the bottom of one edge of the house on the crate, it is necessary to set aside at least 5 -7 cm and put a mark there. As a rule, craftsmen hammer in a nail there or screw in a self-tapping screw. Then a similar work is done at the other end of the wall.

Next, a thread is pulled over the marks, which will serve as a visual level. You cannot go below it. It is very important that the level is as even as possible. Otherwise, all panels will lay crookedly on top of each other.

After that, the starting bar is nailed. Professionals advise not to nail it too tightly, since materials tend to expand slightly from high temperatures (cracks and fractures may appear). Subsequent sections of this strip are attached with a gap of 4-7 mm between them. Further, at all joints of the walls, an external and internal corner is installed. Each time with a complete installation of one row, it is necessary to check the levelness of the mounted strips and panels with a level. This is done so that there is no curvature in the future.

Then planks are mounted around all windows and the doorway. At this stage, preparatory work is completed. You should proceed with the direct installation of the skin.

The first siding sheet is inserted into the starting plank and secured. To do this, use all the same nails or screws. Further installation is carried out from places with "increased traffic": doors, windows. All panels are superimposed from bottom to top in a circle. This means that you cannot first install all the sheets on one side of the wall, and then take on the other. The circular setting will allow you to maintain a clear level without curvature. Masters advise to carry out the work from left to right.

Particular precision should be exercised when installing siding under a window opening. Since it does not always match the size of the joint in the joint, it must be cut to fit the size of the window. On the sheathing sheet, mark with a pencil the places for the slot. You should know that you need to cut 5-8 mm wider so that there is free passage of the resulting panel.

Excess material is cut along the marked line (vertical cuts are made first, and then horizontal). After that, it is inserted as usual.

The final row at the eaves is mounted only after installing the finishing strip. It is fastened with nails flush to the cornice. Next, you need to connect the last siding panel to the previous one and click on it until it clicks. The last part of the panel connects to the finishing rail and snaps into place.

During installation, it is necessary to check each time whether the panels are evenly attached. This is a very painstaking work, but the result will speak for itself.

When a person does some work for the first time, he will always make mistakes. In the construction industry, it is undesirable to allow them, since any oversight can cost the owner dearly - it will be necessary to purchase new material, redo the work, spend more time.

In this regard, experts give a small number of recommendations to help avoid gross mistakes:

• Masters advise not to "choke" the insulation and siding panels. They should fit snugly against the wall, but at the same time have a small gap in the fasteners.
• All nails, screws and self-tapping screws must be screwed in and hammered in, not reaching the base of 1 mm. This is necessary so that the material has room to expand on hot summer days.
• Do not drive nails at an angle of 45 degrees, otherwise they will quickly loosen and the siding will "crawl". This also applies to self-tapping screws.
• If a wooden crate is installed outside, then only galvanized brackets and other metal parts should come into contact with it. Otherwise, rust can give rise to rotting.

• Installation work is best done in summer, when the weather is dry and clear. In the rest of the year, there is a risk that all applied solutions and putty for cracks will not completely dry out. Therefore, there is a risk of mold and mildew. To eliminate them, you will have to dismantle all structures and re-clean all the walls.
• Not all buildings have perfectly flat walls. Therefore, when installing a wooden or metal crate, you need to use a plumb line and mount everything under one level. If this is not done, then the siding will not lay down smoothly and beautifully, but will only emphasize the external flaws of the house. Also, thanks to a correctly installed frame, there is no need to level the surface of the walls, they will be leveled by a layer of insulation and cladding.

For insulation of a house with a siding facade, see the video instructions below.