How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands?

Content
  1. Peculiarities
  2. Device
  3. Views
  4. Design
  5. Mounting
  6. Preparation
  7. Lighting
  8. Subtleties of operation and maintenance
  9. Advice
  10. Beautiful examples in the interior

Drywall in a short time has turned from a material of little use in repairs to one of the most demanded. Columns, arches, multilevel ceilings, false fireplaces - the lightness of the material in the work allows the master's imagination to unfold in full force. Even a beginner can make a drywall sheet, while observing all the recommendations and rules.

Peculiarities

The suspended ceiling is a single-level or multi-level metal frame, reinforced on the ceilings and walls of the room, sheathed with gypsum boards. A prerequisite is also the presence of light sources built into it.

First of all, you need to decide what constitutes a drywall sheet. If you do not go into details, then it can be explained as follows: this is a sheet of dry plaster, covered with cardboard on top.

Despite the apparent simplicity, the material has a lot of impressive advantages:

  • With the help of the gypsum board, you can align very significant bumps and depressions in the ceiling, without spending significant effort. To do this, you need to take a liquid solution - and the advantage becomes even more obvious.
  • Inside the frame, on which the drywall sheets are attached, you can hide any wires and bring all the desired communications, while leaving them invisible to the eye. And this is a big plus from the point of view of aesthetics.
  • Any desired lighting can be mounted in the ceiling made of this material, which allows you to achieve completely unique lighting effects.
  • Plasterboard sheets make it possible to create a multi-level ceiling, making the owner's imagination come true.
  • Due to the free space in the frame, you can arrange additional noise and heat insulation. It is enough just to lay an additional layer of mineral wool between the ceiling and the false ceiling.
  • GKL is mounted without using liquid, dry, which guarantees a minimum amount of dust and dirt.

Everything related to drywall, it is quite possible to carry out activities with your own hands. This means that you can make an original design at minimal cost in accordance with your ideas.

Of course, it cannot be said that drywall is a material without flaws. Of course, they are, but they are more related to the installation of the material than to itself.

For example:

  • Due to the fact that a frame is used during the installation of a plasterboard ceiling, the height of the ceiling is reduced. And, if the ceilings are already low, this can be a problem.
  • If you do not have the skills to work with this material, then you can tinker with the frame for quite a long time: installation alone will be difficult, it is better to enlist the help of a partner.
  • It is impossible to violate the technology of the finishing process, otherwise, with a high probability, cracks will appear in the seams and between them.

Device

GKL boards represent the widest range of possibilities to create a ceiling.

The main components of a plasterboard ceiling are the following materials:

  • GKL sheets. They are chosen depending on the room in which the ceiling is installed, as well as the functionality of the sheet. Therefore, it is advisable to install moisture-resistant gypsum boards in the bathroom, and fire-resistant ones are perfect for the kitchen.
  • Profile for the frame, that is, the base on which the drywall sheets are attached. It ensures the stability of the entire structure. Profiles are divided into two types: starting and carrying.The starting profile runs along the perimeter of the ceiling, and gypsum boards are attached to the supporting structures.
  • Metal hangers to which the profiles are attached. It is possible to use conventional hangers or hangers with a bracket.
  • Dowels and self-tapping screws for drywall.
  • Finishing materials: reinforcing tape, putty, primer, fine-grained sandpaper, which is used to level the ceiling after the putty.

Views

A suspended ceiling can be mounted in many different configurations. Nevertheless, there are three main types, the rest are the basis for more complicated options.

Ceilings can be:

  • single-level;
  • simple two- or three-level;
  • complex.

The most budgetary option is, of course, an easy-to-install and inexpensive single-level ceiling. One way or another, its installation evens out the surface of the ceiling, making it amenable to easy decoration.

On the basis of the first level, the following are built - in this way, differences in the height of the ceiling are created.

Multilevel surfaces can also be classified into the following categories:

  • frame;
  • diagonal;
  • zonal;
  • complex ceilings of other shapes.

The frame structure is represented by a plasterboard box, located in the form of a frame along the perimeter of the ceiling surface. The chandelier hanging in the center of the ceiling will harmoniously fit into the composition.

In a diagonal structure, each subsequent level divides the ceiling along a conventionally drawn diagonal, and not necessarily in a straight line: it can be a wave or an arc. Either way, it makes half of the room stand out. Since the gypsum board is a flexible material, it will not be difficult to form a curly line.

The zonal design highlights a specific area, highlighting the work area or recreation area.

Complex structures can be given different shapes: arched, patterned, curly. The shape can also be in the form of a flower, a geometric shape, or a spiral. It all depends on the owner's imagination and the style in which it was decided to equip the room.

Design

The design of the plasterboard ceiling can have an infinite number of options.

There are a number of nuances:

  • If the room is spacious and has sufficient height, then it is permissible to arrange a multi-level ceiling and decorate it, for example, with stucco moldings, friezes, medallions, ovals. It is beautiful if the pattern on the parquet duplicates the pattern of the ceiling surface.
  • If the room has a large area, then it can be zoned, highlighting, for example, a recreation area with a home theater or a dining area. In these cases, it is also good to provide appropriate lighting for each area with the possibility of separate switching on and off - the room will look even more impressive.
  • If the room is small and low, then it is better not to pile up multi-level structures in it - one level will be enough. There is no need for large shades or a chandelier with pendants. Spotlights mounted in the ceiling surface will look most harmonious.
  • The cornice will add "air" to the space of the room if you make it small and let it go around the perimeter of the ceiling.
  • The following technique will help to visually enlarge the room: paint the surfaces of the ceiling and walls in one color, preferably in a light range.
  • After consulting an interior designer, you might consider installing a ceiling mirror.
  • There is another way to visually "raise" the ceiling: by combining a stretch ceiling with a shiny, glossy surface and a suspended structure made of gypsum plasterboard in the interior of one room.
  • The ceiling should not differ in style from the rest of the interior of the room. For example, in a room made in the Provence style, a ceiling with a mirrored surface will look strange.
  • The most original type of ceiling made of gypsum boards is arched. The lightest arched ceiling is semi-cylindrical. The main condition is to correctly mount the base for the ceiling.

There are four main ceiling design options:

  • single-level;
  • two-level;
  • three-level;
  • curly (this includes arches).

Single-level ceilings are simple and reliable. For small spaces, this is the best option.

You can decorate it in the following ways:

  • paint in different colors;
  • cover with putty;
  • paint by hand;
  • paste over with wallpaper.

If the walls in the room are below 3 meters, then it is better to use light shades. Dark or bright colors can visually reduce an already small space.

Despite the fact that the ceiling is called flat, it should not have a perfectly flat surface. You can make the level convex or concave for a completely different effect. It should be noted that it is this type of false ceiling that is easiest to do with your own hands.

The most popular option is two-level, as for the three-level one - it is quite difficult to execute.

A two-level ceiling provides a wide variety of options, with their help you can give different shapes to the ceiling surface, and backlighting can add even more originality to the design. It is not difficult to build such a ceiling, but nevertheless, certain efforts are required.

If the height of the ceiling allows, you can do something like a "reflection": place a ledge on the ceiling above a similar podium structure on the floor.

Structures made of gypsum boards, accompanied by thoughtful lighting, can look unusually impressive. The flight of design ideas can create original compositions: waves, a combination of matte and glossy surfaces, zigzags and ovals, hand-painted, 3D wallpaper ("wooden", "sky", "sea and palm trees"). Of course, the design is not limited to one game of levels and colors, without highlighting the desired effect you will never achieve. And here LEDs and halogen, chandeliers and shades, mirrors and spotlights are used.

Multi-tiered structures have an extremely attractive appearance. It is best to construct them in a room with high and very high ceilings, for example, in a private house, as they "eat up" a significant part of the height of the room. It is more difficult to make them than, for example, a two-tier structure, and since drywall is an extremely convenient material to work with, this may take a little more time, and the result will be a stunning effect.

GKL stepped elements can be made to order by hiding in them, for example, ceiling beams or a ventilation hood. Built-in lighting sources are not even worth mentioning - they are a prerequisite for a multi-tiered fantasy ceiling structure.

A figured suspended ceiling requires considerable skill in its design and installation, but non-standard elements (flower, solar system, clouds, starry sky) will appeal to everyone. Drywall has properties that allow you to create the desired figure or figures from it: you can build a structure from intertwined abstract forms, it looks especially good in rooms with a large area. An expensive but effective solution is patterns with small cells. A special chic to such a ceiling will give a "roll call" with small blotches of similar patterns on the walls.

An interesting option is the so-called floating ceiling. To create it, you need to select the shape (silhouette) that will be located under the ceiling. It is made separately from gypsum boards and attached to an already finished structure. Thus, the appearance is created that the ceiling element is floating in the air. As a rule, this method is combined with highlighting the "floating" element along the perimeter, which gives an additional effect to the structure.

Mounting

After the preparation of the ceiling surface is complete, it is time to begin the installation. It is important to strictly adhere to the sequence of actions and technologies required to carry out each step.

GKL ceiling can be:

  • hemming;
  • suspension.

In a hemmed structure, drywall sheets are attached to the ceiling surface using a wooden beam or a bent profile, which is called a filing. This is a great option for rooms with low ceiling heights. It is also well suited for installation in a house with wooden floors. The disadvantage of this type is the inability to hem drywall sheets so well as to get a perfectly flat surface.

For a suspended ceiling, gypsum board slabs are mounted on a frame made of profiles fixed to suspensions. This design is ideal for hiding ventilation, wires, lighting.

Cutting drywall sheets is most convenient if they are located vertically and leaned against the wall.

The installation of a false ceiling begins with the installation of the frame.

The secrets of this stage are described in the step-by-step instructions:

  • After the marking on the ceiling has been made, the guide profile (already drilled) is attached to the walls. Its edge is attached to the marking line. The elements of the wireframe will be located below this mark. This is an important step if you decide to make the ceiling yourself.
  • Having pasted over the guide profiles with a sealing tape, they are fixed on the dowels. The dowels should be screwed on in advance.
  • Fastening the hangers every 0.5 m. The initial step from the wall is 0.25 m. Attach the hangers to the anchors. It is important to take into account that drilling forms dust, therefore, all work of this plan is best done with protective goggles and a respirator. When the weights are fixed, their edges need to be bent.
  • The next step is to install the ceiling profile. After installation, it must be fixed to the rail. Self-tapping screws without a drill will help with this.
  • After that, you need to make jumpers - they strengthen the structure. It is imperative to check the position of the profiles using the level. The jumpers are fixed with "crabs".
  • If insulation is needed, then mineral wool is placed in the jumpers. It has both the property of thermal insulation and absorbs noise. Working with mineral wool also necessarily requires the use of a respirator, in addition, gloves are required.
  • The installation of the crate is completed, the next thing to do is the wiring of the electrical cable. The wires must be in a corrugated sleeve - in no case should the communication parts be allowed to press or hang on the frame.
  • After that, you can start sheathing the frame with gypsum boards. All sheets must be prepared in advance: in the lying position they must be stored for some time in the very room where they will be mounted. In addition, holes for fixtures must be made in them.
  • Plasterboarding starts from the corner, fastening occurs on self-tapping screws every 15 cm.
  • Sheets are not installed end-to-end: it is imperative to leave 4-5 mm between them.

The installation of the ceiling is over, you can proceed to finishing, but only after the seams have been completed. This is very important, because if the seams are poorly sealed, then this is fraught with cracks throughout the ceiling. You can do this with a serpyanka mesh or putty.

If the method of filling the seams is chosen, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

  • impregnation of joints with a primer with acrylates;
  • when dry, dilute the putty mixture, for example, gypsum;
  • fill the seams with a mixture and level with a spatula (a wide one is suitable);
  • additionally do the same in the gaps between the sheets and the caps of the screws;
  • when dry, glue the serpyanka and putty;
  • apply the finishing filler with a maximum thickness of 1.5 cm;
  • rub the roughness with fine-grain grinding;
  • remove dust with a dry sponge or vacuum cleaner;
  • apply a primer with acrylic.

After that, surface repairs will not be needed for a very long time, and finishing work can begin.

Project. The properties of drywall are such that they allow you to create structures of any complexity. But, the more complex the future design, the more accurate the calculation and plan should be.As with any job, a project is needed to install a false ceiling. This includes a graphic representation, perhaps a cost estimate or list of required materials, and a sequence of actions. In addition to the list of materials, you must also calculate the required amount.

The project of a ceiling made of gypsum boards should ideally include:

  • Sketch (drawing), which contains an image of the future structure. The sketch should be large-scale and color.
  • The drawing is a reflection of all elements of the supporting structure. If there are two or more ceiling levels, the drawing may contain more than one sheet.
  • Calculation of materials. The more carefully it is drawn up, the less likely it is that compliance with the installation technology will be violated.

If you plan to do the installation yourself, it is better to consult with professionals, taking the project with you. So it will be easier for them to find the error and point out it, which will help to avoid losses in the quality of the future design.

When creating a sketch, you need to take into account the following constant positions:

  • area of ​​the room;
  • ceiling height and shape;
  • floor and wallpaper colors, patterns on them;
  • the style in which the room is decorated;
  • design and dimensions of furniture in the room.

Having drawn a sketch, it is advisable to transfer it to tracing paper. Subsequently, tracing paper will be superimposed on the skeleton drawing to clarify the final design.

Next are the drawings. For the frame of each tier, a drawing is made; it is also convenient to make separate sheets for marking lighting fixtures and for wiring.

If you put all of the above on one sheet, the drawing will contain too much information and look overwhelmed.

In the case of planning a ceiling with one level, the lathing cell is 0.5x0.6 m.If several tiers are planned or something massive will be placed on the ceiling, for example, a chandelier or a mirror, the cell size is reduced to 0.5x0.4 m. the distance between the suspensions - from 1 m will decrease to 0.5-0.6 m.

The drawing of the lathing of the first tier should contain all the information about the attachment points and the passage of the profiles, the tab for the lamps, the points of installation of the suspensions. The same should be contained in the drawings of all subsequent tiers.

After finishing drawing up drawings and adjusting the sketch by superimposing them on top of each other, you need to proceed to calculations. They should take into account everything: from the number of sheets of drywall to cans with putty. In addition, if the installation is planned to be done by hand, then a separate list should be drawn up, which should reflect the availability of the necessary tools.

Upon completion of the calculations, you need to transfer the graphic part of the project to the ceiling surface. The more precisely this is done, the more correct, smoother and more durable the future suspended ceiling will be. After marking the ceiling, you can get a rough idea of ​​how the future object will look like. If this is not what you wanted, you need to make adjustments.

Preparation

Before starting work, you need to make a number of preparatory measures on the surface of the ceiling, namely:

  • Clean the old topcoat. This can be done using, for example, a spatula.
  • Remove with special antiseptics stains of mold, grease, rust, mildew.
  • Putty the cracked areas. For this purpose, it is better to take a cement-based putty.
  • Prime the coating with a compound that contains an antiseptic (it will be correct to use "Color" or "Varnish"). This condition is imperative, otherwise the appearance of stains on the ceiling is inevitable. It is also one of the activities to help level the surface.

After carrying out all these actions, the surface is ready. After waiting for the primer to dry, you need to de-energize the room in which the ceiling is planned to be installed, and installation can begin.

Instruments. Preparing tools and fixtures is an important preparatory stage of work.Unfortunately, due attention is not always paid to it, as a result of which work constantly has to be interrupted, since there is not enough accessories, or tape measures at hand. Therefore, it is better to prepare in advance everything that you may need, and not to be distracted in the process.

To install a suspended ceiling, you need the following:

  • guide and ceiling profile;
  • U-shaped suspensions;
  • profile connectors or "crabs";
  • dowels and screws, and best of all - anchors;
  • drywall sheets;
  • self-tapping screws (both for metal and for gypsum board);
  • sealing tape;
  • finishing material;
  • hydro and thermal insulation material.

There are several rules that must be followed when carrying out repair or finishing work:

  • You should not try to save on materials, for example, on a metal profile. The cheaper it is, the thinner it is, respectively, it will bend and hold the structure poorly. Having made the right choice, the master ensures the reliability and durability of the structure.
  • It is good if the master has levels of two sizes: one up to 1 m high, the second 2-2.5 m. If there is a laser level and the skills to use it, then two levels are not needed.
  • The thickness of drywall sheets should not exceed 9 mm, otherwise a different frame (stiffer) and a different sequence of installation steps are needed.
  • It is important to take into account the purpose of the room in which the ceiling is mounted, and select the material taking it into account. For example, for installation in a bathroom, drywall sheets must be moisture resistant, that is, ordinary gypsum boards will not work.

Lighting

The choice of lighting for a suspended ceiling is a very important point, because lamps can make a composition a highlight of an interior or completely kill it with their tasteless combination.

They usually use recessed spotlights., then the lighting can be made multi-position. Most often, they use halogen lamps, and the body is metal, glass, brass or thermoplastic. In addition, the luminaires can be painted in a variety of sophisticated shades, such as polished and matt brass, bronze, matt or black chrome, to make them even more attractive.

For illumination in the background of multilevel ceiling surfaces, fluorescent lamps, sometimes neon and duralight lamps, are used.

As a point, lighting sources with halogen lamps are preferable, since when they are installed, the ceiling height does not decrease as much as when installing lamps with standard lamps - this is convenient when the ceilings in the room are already low.

Halogen lamps are classified as warm-toned light sources close to the white spectrum, so they do not distort the shades in the room. It is better not to touch the glass surface of the lamp with your hands - there is a high probability that greasy stains will remain. This, in turn, will lead to the fact that the glass of the bulb melts at the point of contact. It is best to use a clean cloth glove or just a clean cloth to do this.

When installing lamps, one should not forget about fire regulations and rules, for example, ensuring a sufficient distance between the ceiling and the ceiling. When using a dimmer as a switch (in order to smoothly control the brightness of the lighting), you do not need to install protection on the lamps.

The selection of spotlights is carried out in accordance with the purpose of the room and the presence of the number of windows in it. LED or energy-saving lamps are best suited for this. Thanks to spotlights, the room can be divided into zones, for example, in a studio apartment.

The transformers are usually located behind the plasterboard slabs on the false ceiling and can be accessed through the lamp holes. It is better if there are several transformers in one room - one for a group of lamps. So, in case of failure of one, the rest will continue to work.The likelihood that all transformers will burn out at once is extremely small. In addition, one large and heavy transformer can act too hard on drywall sheets.

Transformers are divided into the following types:

  • induction;
  • electronic.

Induction is heavier, but more reliable and cheaper. Electronic ones are lighter, but more expensive and break more often.

The question "how many lamps are required to illuminate one room" is individual for each owner. This problem is easily solved when sketching a sketch of the future ceiling and markings. Illumination of a living room in an average city apartment will require an average of 12 50 W lamps. And it is better if the switch is two- or three-key, thereby making it possible to adjust the intensity of lighting or illuminate that area of ​​the room where it is needed.

Also an interesting solution would be to install a dimmer that adjusts the overall brightness of the lighting in the room. It's functional as well as beautiful. In addition, the dimmer will cut energy consumption by more than half and extend the life of halogen lamps. This is because the lamp operates more in milder temperature conditions, as it heats up smoothly and gradually decreases brightness.

Of course, installing spotlights along with halogen bulbs will be more costly, but this will create significant energy savings later on.

To mount a suspended ceiling with light sources, you need to mark the drywall sheets for the holes for them, and then start drilling with an electric drill with a crown attachment. You only need to drill the holes after the purchase of the lamps takes place, since there is no standard size for the holes. Putty is only possible after all holes have been drilled.

LED lighting is divided into the following types:

  • domed;
  • linear;
  • directional light LEDs;
  • LED panels.

White fluorescent lamps are used for the most part to illuminate the multilevel ceiling surface in the background. Such lamps are placed next to each other so as not to interrupt the light surface on the ceiling. With this in mind, you can calculate how many lamps you need. As a result, the lighting should be soft, diffused, and comfortable for the eyes.

If the perimeter of the ceiling surface is too large and you need a lot of lamps, you can use alternative options. For example, duralight, which is a bendable plastic light cord-tube. Miniature incandescent lamps assembled into a garland are pressed into it. For an apartment, you can use the fixing modification - it glows continuously.

Duralight is cheap, easy to install, durable, there is a large selection of colors, does not require a large "visor" in the ceiling for installation, and consumes a small amount of electricity. The downside is low lighting, but it's easy to fix by wrapping it two or three times instead of once.

Speaking about an electroluminescent wire (cold neon), it should be noted that it is essentially a flexible PVC cord, into which a current-carrying wire is sealed. This cord is easy to cut and solder - this is its difference with duralight. It is durable, it can be laid out in different configurations, its light is dazzlingly beautiful at night, it is invisible in the daytime. Its scope is very wide.

Electrical wiring should be installed in compliance with a number of necessary conditions:

  • This must be done before the start of finishing work, before installing drywall sheets on the crate.
  • Like any other work on electrical installation, you should start with the development of a plan, which will provide for what type of wiring will be installed, a diagram is drawn with the required number of switches, as well as junction boxes, cartridges and other devices.Also on the diagram, the places for their installation should be determined in such a way that it is convenient to use them.
  • The connection of wires in places where they are broken must be connected only by means of an adapter block - twisting is unacceptable, especially for wires, the material for which is copper or aluminum.
  • The wires must be marked.
  • The wires must not come into contact with metal. They can be laid near pipelines, for example, with gas, only at an interval of at least 40 cm.
  • Laying of wires in bundles is inadmissible. In addition, it is forbidden to lay wires if the gaps are less than 3 mm between each one.
  • Connecting and branching wires in rooms is possible only with the help of junction and branch boxes.

In modern decor trends, the use of chandeliers with pendants for lighting a room is not implied. Nevertheless, there are good examples of a classic style solution, when a chandelier is very appropriate. But, having decided to hang it, you need to take care of strengthening the ceiling structure in the place where this will happen, since the gypsum boards are not designed to withstand such a weight.

Subtleties of operation and maintenance

It is not difficult to take care of the gypsum plasterboard ceiling. So that it does not lose its attractiveness for a long time, periodically you need to wipe it with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth. If there is a lot of dust, then the ceiling can be vacuumed, after making sure that the brush is clean. If in doubt, it is advisable to wash the brush with soap and dry thoroughly. If this is neglected, dark lines may remain on the ceiling from the brush.

Light sources (be they chandeliers or lamps) also need care. They should be wiped with a dry, clean cloth, bearing in mind that they are energized. If a yellowish coating has formed around the lamps, then it can be removed with a special felt-tip pen.

Dust and dirt spots are removed with a slightly damp cloth or viscose cloth. If the dirt is heavy, you can try dishwashing detergent, or if there are large stains, it is better to freshen up the paint on the ceiling surface.

Advice

To avoid mistakes common to beginners, it is important to consider some of the features of drywall:

  • In order for the gypsum to give away unnecessary moisture, it must lie down. That is why some time must pass between the delivery of the gypsum boards to the room where the installation will be carried out and the installation itself. Otherwise, the sheets may deform.
  • Work with drywall should be carried out in a room whose temperature is constant and not lower than +10 C. In addition, in these temperature conditions, the gypsum board must be at least 4 days - two days before installation and two days after, only after 2 days can be repaired seams.
  • The main rule is that before you cut, drill or screw something, you need to check and calculate everything. It is not in vain that such an important stage as design is present in the installation of a suspended ceiling. Only after completing all calculations, combining the sketch and drawings, marking the ceiling itself, you need to proceed to the action.

Beautiful examples in the interior

A two-level geometric plasterboard ceiling with spotlights and LED panels.

Original flower-shaped ceiling. The backlight goes around the entire perimeter.

A two-level ceiling, in the lighting of which a chandelier and lamps are combined.

Geometric ceiling with spotlights.

For a video instruction on how to assemble a plasterboard ceiling, see below.

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