Rose Winchester Cathedral

English bush roses confidently and rightfully occupy a certain and very extensive niche. Rose of the Winchester Cathedral variety (synonyms for Winchester Cathedral, Winchester Casidral, Winchester Casedral, Winchester Cathedral, Winchester Casedral, White Mary Rose) will become a real highlight of the collection, with its unique aroma and wonderful flowers, where pink flashes peep through the snowy whiteness.

The author of the appearance of the rose is the English breeder David Austin, who used the White Mary Rose variety to achieve the desired result, resulting in a crop with a different shade of buds. The variety was registered in 1988.

Varietal shrub is characterized as well-branched, 1-1.2 meters high and 100 cm in diameter. Straight and strong shoots are covered with woody brown skin and dark green foliage with a glossy surface. Spikes are present in a minimum amount

The rounded buds are cream colored with a strong pink undertone in the form of strokes or spotty blotches. Cup-shaped large flowers with a diameter of 8-10 cm in half-release and in full dissolution are painted in creamy white tones with a creamy yellowish tint without variegation. Dense double buds are filled with 80-90 petals, inflorescences consist of 1-3 flowers. The bush exudes a sweetish aroma with distinct notes of honey and almond.

The advantages of the variety include strong immunity and unpretentious care. The repetitive flowering rose is distinguished by abundant, intense and long flowering, almost unaffected by diseases and pests, well and firmly tolerates prolonged cold snap, rain and heat. Not too large flowers are considered disadvantages.

Abundant flowering lasts all summer from the first decade of June to autumn, since the rose belongs to the re-flowering category. Flowers and buds are cut for a long time.

The variety is used as standard specimens in solo, group and mixed plantings. Rose is widely used to decorate urban landscapes, parks, squares and adjacent areas to administrative buildings. Winchester Cathedral adorns avenues and walkways, is used in combination with other perennials and annuals in mixborders, harmonizes well with conifers and looks great on lawns.

The variety is adapted for the 6th zone of the USDA, is grown in the middle zone of the Russian Federation and in more southern regions.

For growing Winchester Cathedral, they choose places with good access to the sun's rays, but partial shade is also allowed for some time of the day. You cannot choose swampy lowlands or soils with a close proximity of groundwater. The roots of the culture do not tolerate long-term proximity to ice water.

Chernozem or loamy soils should have a light structure, be loose and breathable, drained and fertile. Acceptable pH level is neutral or slightly acidic.The optimal timing for planting young plants: early spring and autumn, and preference should be given to the latter option.

Autumn seedlings have time to undergo adaptation and acclimatization, there is enough time before the onset of the winter season for the plant to begin to grow roots. In spring, they enter the growing season on time. Spring seedlings are late in development by about 2-3 weeks, since they need time to adapt.

The distance between the holes is 1-1.5 meters, the dimensions of the holes are 60x60 cm. At the bottom of each hole, a drainage layer is arranged to avoid stagnation of moisture. The removed fertile soil is enriched with organic matter (humus, manure, compost), coarse river sand, peat and complex mineral fertilizers for roses are added. During planting, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar remains underground at a depth of 2-3 cm. The soil in the near-trunk circle is compacted and watered with warm, settled water. Despite the standard cultivation, Winchester does not need support.

After planting young plants, traditional methods of care are carried out, based on well-known agricultural techniques.

• Watering - regular, 1-2 times a week, using warm water for this. It is desirable that it has time to settle, since chlorine has a negative effect on the culture. If planting is group, you should organize drip irrigation, since the rose is watered at the root. Despite the fact that the variety is not afraid of precipitation, overhead sprinkling leaves ugly dusty streaks on the petals and leaves, thereby reducing the decorative effect of the bush.

• Weeding removes weeds from the near-stem circles, which take most of the nutrients from the soil and allows the roots to grow more freely.

• Loosening prevents the formation of an earthen crust after watering, especially in hot weather, and also contributes to the saturation of the soil with oxygen, so necessary for the roots.

• Mulching largely replaces loosening, prevents rapid evaporation of moisture, and inhibits weeds.

• Top dressing begins in the second year after planting, if the holes were filled correctly:

  • nitrogen is introduced in early spring;

  • in the middle of summer, the rose needs potassium-phosphorus preparations or mineral concentrates;

  • in the fall, potash and humus are introduced into the trunk circle.

During the season, the bushes are fed several times with infusion of fresh mullein.

• Pruning. Sanitary pruning is carried out in early spring, removing diseased, old and dry shoots. Forming pruning allows you to shape the bush into the desired shape.

Preparing a plant for the winter period consists in shortening all shoots to a height of 40-50 cm and hilling. After that, air protection is installed against damping and soaking of the roots, covered with spruce branches and geotextiles on top. The snow cover is an additional layer of thermal protection.

Strong immunity serves as sufficient protection for the crop, preventing damage from powdery mildew, black spot and gray mold. However, in especially unfavorable seasons, immunity can fail, and then fungicides will help in the fight against diseases. Of the pests for the variety are dangerous:

• aphid;

• sawfly;

• spider mite;

• golden bronze.

You can get rid of them by treating the planting with insecticides.

The variety is propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush and grafting. The most effective method is the vegetative method. To do this, cuttings 10-15 cm long are cut from the ripened shoots of the current year, leaving the lower cut oblique, the upper straight. The upper flexible part of the stem is not used. The lower sections are treated with root formation stimulants and planted in greenhouses with neutral soil, consisting of river sand and peat. Planting needs regular moisture and ventilation. For division, an adult perennial bush is used, which is divided into 2 parts. To get a plant with a scion, you need to have a suitable stock in the garden.