Rose Westerland

Initially, the Westerland rose was grown as a park plant, but many summer residents grow it as a climbing plant. The culture is distinguished by lush and bright flowering, good immunity and unpretentiousness.

The variety was bred in Germany in the city of Sylt by the breeder V. Kordes in 1969. When crossing, the varieties Friedrich Worlein x Circus were used.

Rose Westerland belongs to the group of scrub and climbing plants. The culture has other synonyms for the name: Westerland, Westerland, Western Land.

The rose is well suited for creating flower arrangements, for growing in a flower bed, as well as for cutting.

The bush forms large. The length of the shoots is 200 cm, they are vigorous, erect and well-branched. The crown grows in width to 150 cm. There are a large number of different thorns on the stems.

The foliage is strong. The leaves are large, oblong and elongated in shape, dark green in color. Medium gloss, jagged edge.

The bud is large, 11 cm in diameter. The rosette is cupped. The color of the flower is a shining mixture of scarlet, orange, pink, amber and yellow. The main color is orange. In terms of color saturation, it is very bright. There is two-color, there is no variegation.

The type of bud is moderately double. The number of petals is no more than 30. All flowers are located in inflorescences of 5-10 pieces. The inflorescence itself is multi-flowered.

The aroma is fragrant, strong, intense and very noticeable.

The positive traits of the culture are that it has good immunity. It can adapt well to any climatic conditions. It tolerates temperature extremes, frost, prolonged drought, sunshine and torrential rains. All this does not affect the formation of buds, as well as flowering.

Among the shortcomings, it can be noted that shoots grow very quickly in the bushes in different directions. If you do not carry out molding, then the bush will thicken, and some of the shoots will begin to break.

Rose Westerland is a multi-flowering variety. Active and abundant flowering occurs in June, then in August and at the end of September. Much depends on the climatic zone: the warmer and longer the summer, the more waves of flowering the culture will have.

If flowering does not occur or it is very scarce, it means that mistakes were made in agrotechnical care. The main mistakes are as follows:

• irregular watering;

• the soil is not nutritious enough;

• the place for the rose garden was chosen incorrectly;

• infestation of infections or attack of pests.

The rose is perfect for a rose garden or for any other floral arrangement. It can be easily planted in gardens or flower beds.

The culture goes well with other flowers and conifers.

Thanks to the long creeping shoots, the rose can be planted next to the gazebo or veranda. Suitable for creating a hedge.

You can form a small bush for an alpine slide, only in this case it is necessary to cut the shoots several times per season.

Before boarding, you must choose a seat. It should be well lit, but slightly shaded.It is best to choose the south side, since in the morning and in the evening the bush will receive enough sunlight, but in the very sun it will be closed from direct rays.

The place must be protected from strong winds and drafts.

The soil should be rich in black soil, then the bush will have enough of all the trace elements. And it is also necessary that moisture does not linger in the ground. Therefore, it is recommended to lay out drainage at the bottom of the fossa.

About 2 weeks before planting, a hole is harvested with dimensions of 50x50 cm, the distance between other plants (especially conifers) is at least 30-40 cm.

Drainage from pebbles, crushed stone or expanded clay is laid out on the bottom. Its height should be at least 10 cm. A small layer of earth is poured, mixed with compost.

The seedling should be soaked in wet sand a day before planting so that the roots are nourished.

It is worth lowering it into the hole carefully, trying to straighten the roots. Fall asleep gradually, then tamp.

After planting, everything is plentifully spilled with water and compacted again.

In addition to seedlings, roses can also be grown by seed. But it is practiced only in regions with warm and long summers.

Caring for a Westerland rose should include:

• watering;

• top dressing;

• loosening the soil;

• pruning and shaping a bush;

• preparation for winter;

• preventive spraying.

All watering should be done early in the morning with warm and settled water. Irrigation is carried out 2 times a week. If the summer is hot and dry, then watering is carried out more often.

It is best that the soil is always slightly damp, but not wet, otherwise the roots may begin to rot. In order not to worry about the condition of the soil, you can lay mulch next to the bush.

Fertilizing the Westerland rose is needed only 2 times per season, but provided that the soil is noble and nutritious.

At the beginning of spring, the first nitrogen fertilization is carried out. And the second - at the beginning of flowering. For fertilizers, a combination of a complex of minerals based on phosphorus and potassium is selected.

For long-lasting flowering, small amounts of superphosphates can be used every 2 weeks. Towards the end of July, all feeding stops.

Many summer residents advise in the first year after planting a rose in the ground to cut it so that it does not bloom. This is necessary in order for the roots to take root more deeply into the soil.

Sanitary pruning is carried out in the spring. Weak, broken and diseased branches are removed. In summer, shoots are pruned as necessary and faded buds are removed. In the fall, the bush is pruned and prepared for winter. All buds and foliage are removed.

The variety is frost-resistant, can withstand a temperature drop down to -29 ° C. For a comfortable wintering, the bushes are covered with spruce branches and non-woven fabric or agrofiber.

And also before the first frosts, the soil is abundantly spilled with water and mulched with sawdust or coniferous branches.

With proper care, the bush practically does not suffer from insect attacks or diseases. But on foliage caterpillars, ticks or aphids can be found. For the fight, insecticides or folk remedies are selected.

The variety can be propagated in two ways: by cuttings or vegetatively.

The first days of July are chosen for cuttings, but only March or April is suitable for the vegetative method.

For the method of cuttings, it is necessary to choose stiff, strong branches. Cutting of cuttings is carried out only on the upper and middle parts of the branch, where there is abundant foliage.

The size of the cutting should be at least 20 cm, have several buds without flowers and leaves.

The material must be placed in the ground to a depth of 2-3 cm. The distance between the grooves should be 5-8 cm.

The wells are covered with a plastic bottle to create a greenhouse. The temperature should be + 20 ... 25 ° С. Humidity - 95 to 98%. The first roots will appear in 3-4 weeks. For the winter, it is worth covering with a covering.

The next year, the rose can be planted in a permanent place.