Rose Wedding Piano

Rose Wedding Piano (synonymous with Wedding Piano) belongs to the spray Piano group. The decorative culture is loved and respected by gardeners and landscape designers for its sophisticated beauty, splendor of flowering and versatility when combined with other plants.

The originator of the variety was the German breeder Christian Evers, an employee of the famous Rosen Tantau company. In 2013, the crop was registered as Tan 01360, but for the consumer it remained Wedding Piano.

The Piano series, like Wedding Piano itself, although positioned as a spray, actually belongs to the tea group. The erect Wedding bush is distinguished by its slimness and compactness, reaching a height of 1-1.2 m, width - from 45 to 60 cm.The outline is so accurate that the formative pruning is carried out with minimal interference with natural growth, even if they outgrow the declared parameters. Long, straight and strong shoots, with infrequent thorns, painted in a woody-burgundy shade, ideal for cutting and covered with dark green foliage. The leaf plate is of a leathery type, dense and smooth, it is distinguished by a strong shine, the edges are indented with small denticles.

The buds are painted in milky greenish tones with raspberry blotches. In half-release, the flower has a spherical shape and white shades, in full dissolution it has a characteristic cup-shaped shape. In its white palette, a creamy undertone is clearly manifested. The densely doubled bud consists of many densely packed matte velvety petals, ranging in number from 35-41 to 80-100. The inflorescences consist of 5-10 buds, emit a light, unobtrusive and delicate aroma with hints of ripe raspberries, whose intensity intensifies in the middle of the day.

The variety has many advantages and only a limited number of disadvantages.

Advantages:

• delicate aroma;

• unpretentiousness;

• high decorativeness;

• versatility in application;

• heat, frost resistance, endurance;

• strong immunity and no susceptibility to disease;

• undulating, double flowering and long-term retention of buds on bushes and in cut.

The disadvantage of the variety is the need for fertilizing for re-flowering, however, any rose needs this, otherwise abundant bud formation cannot be achieved. Another conditional drawback can be called a raspberry aroma that attracts insects.

The flowering period is 4 to 5 months. The first buds begin to form in early June under favorable conditions. Then the process continues through October inclusive. The plant can take a break of 1.5-2 months, however, creating ideal conditions allows the culture to bloom almost continuously. At the same time, the buds bloom very slowly, then the flower remains on the stem for a rather long time, and the inflorescences of several buds increase the area of ​​coverage with flowers of green mass.

Dense double roses are similar to peonies, for which they received the definition - peony. Each flower reaches 8-12 cm in diameter.Cut Wedding Piano is extremely popular in flower arrangements for special occasions: weddings, anniversaries, etc.

To decorate the surrounding space, the variety is used as a soloist in flower beds and lawns, as a companion in group plantings of various perennials and annuals. The bush, heavily topped with cream-white flowers, looks good when paired with blue hues. Designers use culture to form tall curbs in park areas, decorate city landscapes, squares adjacent to administrative buildings, and territories with it. A rose planted along the alleys looks no less beautiful.

The declared cultivation area of ​​the variety is 6 USDA (-18ºC to -23ºC). However, high heat resistance makes it possible to grow crops not only in the gardens of central Russia and in a temperate climate, but also in the southern regions.

For the optimal development of culture, its preferences should be taken into account. The variety loves the sun's rays, but at the same time tolerates light partial shade well. At the same time, it is impossible to plant in places with constant shade - there will be no lush flowering. It is imperative to have protection from drafts and cold winds.

Favorable terms for planting: mid-September and October. Before the onset of winter cold weather is still quite far away, young plants have time to adapt and begin to grow the root system. In the spring, they enter the growing season on time, along with all the plants. Spring plantings inevitably cause significant developmental delays in the first season. The seedling needs time to adapt and get used to new living conditions. Then he begins to actively develop the aerial part, and only then builds up the root system and gives basal shoots.

A rose needs a fertile black earth or loamy soil rich in humus and organic matter, minerals and a neutral level of acidity. Soil structure: loose, breathable, well-drained.

Optimal landing pattern: 1-1.5 meters between holes. The dimensions of the planting pit are 60x60x60 cm. A 10-cm drainage layer of gravel or fine pebbles is arranged at the bottom; broken bricks can be used. The excavated fertile soil is enriched with organic matter (compost, humus, manure), coarse river sand, peat and complex mineral fertilizers are added. During planting, the vaccination site is left below ground level by 2-3 cm.

Further care of the rose does not require special measures.

• Watering. Regular (2 times a week) and abundant irrigation is required. At least 15 liters of warm water are poured under each bush. Contact of roots with icy moisture can be detrimental to them. For a seedling of the current year, the amount of water is more limited - 5-6 liters for watering is enough for it.

• Weeding will help rid the soil of weeds, loosening oxygenates the soil and prevents the formation of an earth crust, mulching inhibits weed growth and delays moisture evaporation.

• Top dressing. Additional nutrient intake is required. During the season, fertilize with mullein solution several times, as well as:

  • nitrogen is introduced in early spring;

  • in July they are fed with potassium-phosphorus compounds;

  • in the fall, potash preparations are introduced, and the trunks are covered with humus.

• Sanitary pruning is done in early spring and late autumn. At this time, planting is freed from old, sick and damaged shoots. Formative pruning is designed to give the plant the desired shape, maintain its neat appearance, and shorten adult shoots in spring by several buds. It is carried out in spring and summer, if at this time it is necessary to adjust the appearance of the plant.

Preparing for winter means pruning all shoots up to 40 centimeters and organizing an air shelter to avoid damping off. Then spruce branches and geotextiles are put on top. In the southern regions, the last step is optional.